1. 01 Typical weight: from 300 g for inflatables up to 800 g for foam-and-air pads.
2. 02 In the end a pad has to be comfortable to sleep on. If it isn't, try another.
3. 03 Add a thin layer, like stiff plastic sheeting, underneath so air pads don't puncture and thorns don't stick in foam.
4. 04 Before you go, lay it out at home or on the balcony and take a nap on it, so nothing surprises you on the trail.

1. 01 R-value measures insulation from the ground. The higher it is, the warmer the pad. Most brands now test to the same standard (ASTM), so you can compare.
2. 02 Summer: an R-value of 1–2 is enough.
3. 03 Spring and autumn: 2–3.
4. 04 Winter in the hills, the Negev and the Golan: 4 or more.
5. 05 Winter trick: a foam or egg-crate pad under your inflatable. The R-values add up, and you get puncture protection too.

1. 01 A mummy-shaped pad is lighter and packs smaller; a rectangular one is comfier if you move a lot in your sleep.
2. 02 Side sleeper? Look for 7 cm or more, so your hip and shoulder don't touch the ground.
3. 03 Standard width is about 51 cm. Broad-shouldered riders can get wide models of about 64 cm.
4. 04 A short (3/4) pad saves weight. Rest your feet on the empty seat bag.

1. 01 Use a pump sack instead of your mouth. Moisture from your breath gets inside and can cause mould.
2. 02 Always carry a repair kit: patches and glue. Most pads come with a small one.
3. 03 Pad going flat overnight? Inflate it, dunk it in a puddle or dribble water on it and look for bubbles. Mark the spot and patch it once dry.
4. 04 On cold nights a pad seems to go soft as the air cools. It's not always a hole: top it up before sleep.
5. 05 At home store the pad unrolled with the valve open, not folded in its sack.

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